Evan Kleiman is your guide to the best cooking and eating
Frozen yogurt is experiencing a culinary renaissance in Los Angeles, shifting from a low-fat, health-oriented trend to a high-quality, transparent product featuring seasonal farmer's market ingredients. Shops like Lily and Meadow are redefining the category by focusing on minimal, premium components, while established ...
Global breakfast culture in Los Angeles offers diverse, traditional morning meals ranging from Thai congee and Taiwanese fan tuan to Ukrainian pierogies and Lebanese spreads. These dishes provide unique textures and flavors, such as the bouncy meatballs in Thai juk or the savory, multi-component nature of a traditional...
Native chef and author Nephi Craig explores the reclamation of indigenous foodways through the lens of his personal journey from addiction to sobriety. His memoir, Our Knives Will Save Us, details how traditional Apache and Navajo culinary practices serve as vital tools for healing and cultural preservation. Craig high...
Route 66 serves as a culinary timeline of American road trip culture, defined by iconic, nostalgia-laden stops that persist despite the rise of modern highways and fast-food chains. Historic landmarks like Chicago’s Lou Mitchell’s, Albuquerque’s Monte Carlo Liquors and Steakhouse, and Los Angeles’s Formosa Cafe offer d...
Punjabi migration to California serves as a roadmap for identity and survival, where food acts as an archive of history. Author Madhushree Ghosh illustrates how early 20th-century Punjabi immigrants, often forming families with Mexican communities, adapted traditional recipes like corn roti using local tools and ingred...
Korean drinking culture centers on communal rituals and social hierarchy, where the act of pouring for others reinforces social bonds rather than individual consumption. Irene Yoo, author of Soju Party, notes that this tradition, rooted in history and home-brewed spirits, has evolved into a vibrant social practice invo...
Hot dog culture encompasses a vast array of regional styles, ranging from the snappy, natural-casing varieties favored by enthusiasts to unconventional toppings like pineapple sauce or coleslaw. Beyond the classic cookout staple, food writer Farideh Sadeghin highlights how regional nuances, such as the West Virginia Sl...
The American hamburger serves as a lens for exploring regional identity, culinary history, and cultural preservation. Hamburger scholar George Motz highlights the enduring appeal of the classic smash burger, noting how regional variations like the Mississippi slug burger and Iowa’s loose meat sandwich reflect local res...
Suehiro Cafe, a long-standing Little Tokyo institution, recently relocated to 4th and Main Streets after facing eviction and pandemic-related challenges. Owner Kenji Suzuki traces the restaurant’s evolution from a family-run Mahjong parlor to a beloved comfort food destination, emphasizing the sacrifices made by his mo...
Sudanese cuisine functions as a cultural sponge, blending Mediterranean, West Asian, and West African influences into a distinct culinary identity. Omer Al Tijani, author of The Sudanese Kitchen, highlights the essential role of ground okra as a binding agent for rich stews, the use of fermented sorghum kisra bread, an...
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